Grind a pinch of saffron with a little sugar. Add it to a small bowl with 3 tablespoons of warm water. Let it sit for 10 minutes. This releases its deep golden color and rich aroma.

Grate the onion and squeeze out all the juice. Add it to a large bowl with the ground meat. Add cumin, turmeric, salt, pepper, baking soda, and half the saffron water. Mix and knead the mixture firmly for 5 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Take a handful of the meat mixture. Wrap it firmly around a flat metal skewer. Press and squeeze it tightly into a long, flat shape. Repeat with the remaining mixture. This should give you 4–6 kebabs.

Rinse the basmati rice well under cold water. Soak it for 30 minutes, then drain. Boil a large pot of salted water. Add the rice and par-cook for 6–7 minutes. Drain when still slightly firm.

In a heavy-bottomed pot, melt butter with olive oil over medium heat. Add the remaining saffron water. Spread a thin layer of rice on the bottom. Layer the rest of the rice on top in a dome shape. Place a kitchen towel under the lid and cook on low heat for 30–35 minutes.

Heat your grill or grill pan to high heat. Place the skewers on the grill. Cook for 4–5 minutes per side. Grill the whole tomatoes alongside. Cook until the kebabs are lightly charred and fully cooked through.

Scoop the fluffy saffron rice onto a large plate. Flip the pot to reveal the golden tahdig crust on top. Slide the kebabs off the skewers onto the rice. Add the grilled tomatoes. Sprinkle sumac generously over everything. Serve hot and enjoy immediately.